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The pinnacle of minimalism

A small conversation over a T-Shirt

On a sunny but cold spring day fashion designer Anni Arela and Silent Finn founder Tuukka Koski delve into the intricacies of t-shirt design. Despite Anni's initial reluctance to focus on such a basic garment, their conversation reveals the profound impact of design choices, materials, and cultural significance, showcasing the t-shirt as a canvas for innovation and individuality.

Tuukka: Why is designing a t-shirt so interesting? Time and time again?

Anni: The design is so simple that even the smallest changes can significantly alter the product. For instance, a one-centimeter difference in sleeve length is huge. Or how the neck label is attached—whether it stays on or damages the shirt when removed. Nothing is insignificant.

T: Do materials matter?

A: They matter a great deal. Designers are divided into those who focus on materials and those who don't. Good material shows immediately and always in the final product. From the raw material itself, but also how it's woven and the thickness of the fabric. For example, a cashmere sweater is a perfect example. Even if it's a plain sweater, you can tell from afar that it's good quality. If there's an identical model made of acrylic next to it, it's a completely different product.

In reality, the material aspect is annoyingly influenced by money and availability. It depends on where the production is done. Not everyone has the same opportunities to use good materials.

"The design is so simple that even the smallest changes can significantly alter the product. For instance, a one-centimeter difference in sleeve length is huge. Or how the neck label is attached—whether it stays on or damages the shirt when removed. Nothing is insignificant."
Anni Arela. The designer of Silent Shirt.
200g fabric makes the shirt thick enough to keep a nice form, but still suitable for everyday use.
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T: What do you think is most important in successful design?

A: That nothing is distracting! Proportions. Sleeve length, shirt length. Width. Neckline shape. Materials. The width of the cuffs. The overall look. At a glance, you can tell if you're interested in something or not. And a lot!

T: So a good t-shirt can be inspiring? What is the general level of their design?

A: Absolutely. It's the pinnacle of minimalism. For this project, I collected different shirts from home and compared them, and they were all completely different, even though they were all white t-shirts. Usually, a t-shirt is some kind of compromise. I didn't include a €500 Jil Sander in my comparison.

"Good material shows immediately and always in the final product. From the raw material itself, but also how it's woven and the thickness of the fabric. For example, a cashmere sweater is a perfect example. Even if it's a plain sweater, you can tell from afar that it's good quality. If there's an identical model made of acrylic next to it, it's a completely different product."
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T: So… Are they any better? Are they worth the price? Can you tell the difference from a good basic shirt?

A: From the pictures, they look like they are thick. They must be really well-finished. But then again, if you think about the versatility of something like the Silent Shirt, it wouldn't be suitable for that. It's a completely different product.

And they also have to cost a certain amount because of the brand or image. They've risen over time. Prices have doubled and tripled. They can't deviate too much from the brand's overall line.

T: Yeah, let's make it a special Japanese fabric thick edition!

A: Sometimes there are shirts made of crappy material, but they are still really good and beloved. But then there has to be something else that's completely spot on. The shirt may have shaped and worn with you to become what it is. It feels like part of you.

For example, in band or team shirts, the print is the thing. Not so much the shirt. It would be nice to have both, but you usually can't choose. Again, a different matter.

T: Can you combine style and practicality in a t-shirt?

A: Yes, that's where the greatness of a t-shirt lies. It's its deepest essence. You can design it to be as versatile as you want. I believe that with the rise of 90s rap culture, the white t-shirt has become completely appropriate for any occasion. It fits under a suit jacket. Often it's even a much fresher look if you wear a t-shirt, for example, in a meeting or at a party. The change has been really fast. You project a relaxed and sporty vibe. You don't necessarily need a suit to create credibility and a professional impression.

When Raf Simons did Jil Sander, he had a spring collection where women wore white t-shirts and brightly colored, big evening gown-like skirts. And it was fresh. Nowadays, a white t-shirt is a proper garment for women too. It can be paired with anything.

And what Balenciaga is doing right now, making high-fashion versions of all basic elements, brings the essence of fashion and clothing very close to everyone. But since they are made from expensive materials and well, the result is entirely different. You can't compare them to counterparts from cheap stores.

T: Personally, I've always done it this way: if I go to the gym in the morning, I wear the shirt I wore the previous day and change into a clean one after the workout and shower. Or if I go straight from work to the gym, I work out in my work shirt. It cuts down on laundry. Of course, it requires a shirt suitable for such use. But that's why we made this one! I think the fact that it lasts a long time and reduces laundry is already an eco-friendly act and more important than being 100% organic cotton.

A: Yes, it requires a bit of Lycra. It makes the material suitable for that purpose. Although not everyone likes it.

T: Why shouldn't there be Lycra in it? Why is it bad?

A: Well, if you think about recycling the fiber, it's easier to recycle if it's 100% cotton. But most jeans, for example, have Lycra. A lot of modern models just don't work without it.

That's why I've always used it because it makes the product more comfortable to use. And also, Lycra keeps the fabric in shape, and the product lasts longer.

It's certainly important to consider recyclability, but I think the primary consideration should be that the product is well-made and durable. If a good shirt lasts for years, I think that's already a strong argument in its favor.

Anni on Combining Style and Practicality: "Yes, that's where the greatness of a t-shirt lies. It's its deepest essence. You can design it to be as versatile as you want. I believe that with the rise of 90s rap culture, the white t-shirt has become completely appropriate for any occasion. It fits under a suit jacket. Often it's even a much fresher look if you wear a t-shirt, for example, in a meeting or at a party."
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